By Annelies Tops
After travelling Australia’s South Coast for one month, we needed a change of scenery from all the (admittedly very beautiful) coast and cliffs. That’s why we decided to head a bit more North and explore the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park.
The park is located about 177 km from Port Augusta and definitely worth the trip. It is about 95.000 hectares big. The mountainous landscapes here provide some incredible views. Inside the park, you can find a lot of plants and animals, even some rare species like the yellow-footed rock-wallaby. These cute marsupials can be seen in Wilkawillina and Brachina gorges, two small canyons east and west of the park. The park also has a rich cultural heritage. Close to Wilepina Pound, there are the remnants of the old station and on the North side of the park, in Aroona, there are ruins of an old homestead.
We spend two days in the national park: one day for a big hike and another day to go to the lookouts and a smaller walk.
Track to St. Mary Peak
Day one – St. Mary Peak hiking trail:
There are several walks that start at the Wilpena Pound visitor center. We decided to do the St. Mary Peak hiking trail. Here you have two options: the inside trail or the outside trail. The outside trail is 14,2 km long and the estimated time for this trail is 5 to 6 hours. The estimate does not include time for breaks or enjoying the view. The trail goes to the summit and back on the same route. The inside trail is 20,2 km long and takes the same trail to the top but on the way back, splits off to a different trail and it will take you 6 km more. This means you can decide which trail to take after you climbed to the summit. Both trails end back at Wilpena Pound visitor center.
14,2 km was definitely enough for us so we took the outside trail; to the top and back. The first 4,4 km were easy-peasy, it took us only 1 hour. It was a very flat and easy surface. Then began a very long climb of about 10 km. At multiple sections it got pretty steep; it almost felt like we were rock-climbing. They made the path pretty clear with blue signs but we still managed to get lost a bit. Bless google maps! We downloaded an offline map and the trail is right on there. This part took us 3 hours, so after 4 hours total we reached the summit, plenty of breaks included. On the way there the view is already stunning but when you get to the top you really get rewarded for the long climb. You can see almost the whole park at about 1100m above sea level. It makes all the efforts worthwhile! This is also a great place to have lunch and prepare yourself for the way down. You go down the same way you went up. For the brave hikers, after going down 1,6 km you can take the inside trail back and add quite some extra kilometers on your mileage.
The outside trail took us almost seven hours, including breaks, lunch and some time to enjoy the view.
Very rewarding view from the top!
BEFORE YOU GO …
- check with the local info center or online (right here) if it is safe and if the trail is open. Sometimes they close trails or routes in parks for maintenance or if it is too dangerous.
- make sure you have enough water and food
- let someone know where you are and when you will be back. Most parts don’t have reception, although at the top you might be able to send a victory message to your friends.
- download some offline maps on google maps. Even if you have no reception, the GPS on your phone will still work.
expert tip: Place a pin on where your car is and even if you lose the trail or get lost, you can still find your way back. This has helped us a few times while hiking.
Day two – Exploring the North side of the park:
To explore the north side of the park, you will have to take Bunyeroo road from Wilpena Pound. On this road, you will pass some great look-out points. Bunyeroo road is a dirt road that could be done with a regular car but you’re better off with a 4WD. The views at the lookouts and during the drive are gorgeous and you should spend some time checking them out! There are road signs to indicate the look-out points, so it is easy to spot them.
If you follow Aroona Valley Road all the way to the Aroona ruins, the most northern part of the park, there is a nice hiking trail: the red hill lookout hike. It is about 8,4km and it took us 3,5 hours there and back. For the first part of the walk, you have two options: a walking trail or a service trail. These two paths cross at one point and you’ll have to finish the walk on the service tracks. We made the mistake of taking the walking trail on the way there, and the service track on the way back. Yes, we should pay more attention to the signs during our hikes. The walking track is a little bit more challenging but way nicer than the other track. The walk is not very steep except for near the end; where it will take you a bit more effort to get to the top. But again; you will be rewarded with a stunning view!
Red Hill lookout
Where to stay
Apps like wikicamps or campermate will give you a lot of information on campsites or places to park up. Since there’s a $10 entry fee (valid for seven days), I suggest staying inside the park if you want to explore it for a couple of days. There are some free campgrounds outside of the park, but it is not worth the fuel or paying the entry fee again. It is cheaper to pay a bit more for a campground inside the park.
We stayed at one of the budget campsites, called Dingly Dell, which cost 15 dollars per vehicle per night.
There’s accommodation for every budget. From camping to glamping to homestays to resorts. You’re sure to find something to suit your needs.
You can book a campsite and park entrance online or in one of the information centers on the way to the park.
The two days we spend in this park were exhausting but amazing. Hopefully, you’ll have a great time exploring the Flinders Ranges as well!
